Philippe Etchebest’s Pommes Paillasson - A Translation and Adaptation

Chef Philippe Etchebest is one of my favorite French chefs. I often watch his YouTube channel where he features recipes from his book Cuisinez Bien Accompagné (Éditions Albin Michel). I love to not only translate a recipe but also work with it and perfect it so that it’s at its best for an English-language audience. Plus, I get to enjoy it, adopt it as my own, and learn from it.

Chef Etchebest’s pommes paillasson is a homey and comforting side dish that I make often. It’s simply a potato galette (a flat cake), which he correctly describes as easy, inexpensive, and delicious. I find it a nice departure from mashed potatoes as an accompaniment for roast chicken or steak. The outside is golden and crisp while the inside remains tender and full of buttery potato flavor. Chef Etchebest uses the Bintje potato, a yellow-flesh potato frequently used in French cooking. Yukon Gold potatoes are a perfect substitute. Avoid Russett potatoes, as their higher starch content can cause them to stick to some pans when the galette is flipped. Adjust the salt seasoning depending on whether you choose salted or unsalted butter. Chef Philippe chooses Espelette pepper as additional seasoning, but I use grated nutmeg instead, which is easier for me to find and also great with potatoes. To watch his step-by-step video (in French), click here: Philippe Etchebest Pommes Paillasson

Makes one 8-inch potato galette

1 pound 12 ounces (800 g) Yukon Gold potatoes (4 medium)

2          pinches Espelette pepper or freshly grated nutmeg

6          stems flat-leaf parsley

2          tablespoons neutral-flavored cooking oil or olive oil

6 tablespoons (90 g) salted or unsalted butter, cut into eight evenly sized squares

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Peel the potatoes and place them in a bowl of cold water to prevent oxidation. Place a potato on a cutting surface, hold it upright on its side, and slice it in half evenly through the center from top to bottom. Place one half flat side down on the work surface and cut off a small portion of the rounded ends. Thinly slice the potato widthwise, holding the potato together as it’s sliced (The slices should be about 1/8 inch thick.) Using your hand, press the slices down all together so that they lie flat and overlap. Align them, if needed, and then carefully, watching your fingers, slice them widthwise into very thin strips (Alternatively, use a mandolin slicer; I use the 1/8” setting of the French fry cutter.) Transfer the potato strips to a large, clean dish towel and repeat with the remaining half and the remaining potatoes.

Use the towel to gently pat the potatoes dry. Season with salt and pepper. Season with the Espelette pepper. Chop the parsley and spread it over the top of the potatoes. Using your fingertips, toss the potatoes to evenly distribute the seasoning.

Add the oil to a 10-inch frying pan and tilt the pan to evenly coat the bottom. Set the pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (it will appear to be shimmering), add the potatoes and spread them out evenly. Place the butter squares evenly around the edges of the pan so that they melt slowly into the potatoes. Use the tip of a spatula to tuck the potatoes down around the edge to create a galette with a tidy, rounded form.

Cook until slightly browned around the edges, about 15 minutes. If needed, reduce the heat to prevent the potatoes and butter from overbrowning; you want a deep golden caramelization on the bottom. Using a spatula, lift one edge to check if the potatoes are nicely golden on the bottom and that they hold together well (when gently shaking the pan back and forth, the potatoes should shift as one mass, indicating they are detached from the pan). You can carefully run a large offset spatula under the potatoes to check their browning and help detach them from the pan.

When the galette is golden on the bottom, place a large plate (I also use my frying pan’s flat lid) over the pan. Carefully but quickly flip the pan over with the plate now on the bottom. Be careful when doing so, as hot excess butter and juice may drip out from around the edges; this maneuver is best performed over a sink. Once the potatoes have drained slightly, carefully lift off the pan. Tip the plate so that the galette slides neatly back into the pan with the browned side up. Set the pan over medium heat and cook until the potatoes are golden on the bottom, 4 to 5 minutes.

Carefully slide the galette onto a serving plate. Season with additional salt and pepper, if desired, and serve immediately.