Chocolate "Indulgence" Cake - A Translation and Adaptation
This is another delicious and unique recipe by French culinary personality Hervé Palmieri who comes up with clever substitutes in his recipes. I translated this cake’s name to “Indulgence” for a playful twist, as it is actually a much less indulgent chocolate treat than a traditional chocolate cake. It uses real chocolate and Dutch-process cocoa powder, but it contains no flour, oil, dairy, or chemical leavening agents. Hervé also uses a zero-calorie sweetener to reduce added sugar. Additionally, the cake incorporates a vegetable whose flavor is hidden but contributes to a soft, melting texture, compensating for the absence of butter or oil. This recipe is indeed lighter for those who crave the indulgence of chocolate cake but have specific diet needs or prefer a more guilt-free dessert for enjoying chocolate. It is a very moist, delicate, and delicious cake with a rich chocolate flavor.
Makes one 8 by 2 round cake
1½ cups (200 g) Premium dairy-free dark chocolate, preferably between 55% and 61% cacao
1 large (11 to 12 ounces) Whole zucchini (preferably organic), room temperature
4 large Eggs, whites and yolks separated and at room temperature (80 g egg yolks/120 g egg whites)
1 Tbsp + tsp (17 g) Granulated sugar
1 Tbsp + 1½ tsp (17 g) Stevia no-calorie sweetener (granular form)
2 tsp Pure vanilla extract
2 Tbsp (10 g) Unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder, sifted, plus more for dusting
3 Tbsp + 1½ tsp (30 g) Cornstarch
½ tsp Cream of tartar (optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Lightly grease the bottom of an 8 by 2-inch cake pan with a neutral-flavor oil. Line the bottom of the pan with an 8-inch round piece of parchment paper (Use the bottom of the cake pan to trace a circle of parchment paper the same circumference as the pan. Cut out the circle and place it upside down at the bottom of the pan so that any pencil marks are against the pan.) Lightly grease the top of the parchment paper and the sides of the pan.
Position the oven rack so that the cake pan will sit as close to the center of the oven as possible.
Gently melt the chocolate in the microwave, over a double boiler, or in a water bath. Do not let the chocolate get hot, only warm enough to melt it, stirring frequently. Once the chocolate is fully melted, set aside; the chocolate should remain slightly warm and fluid.
Trim and peel the zucchini. Using the smallest holes of a box grater or cheese grater, very finely grate the zucchini into a medium bowl. Do not drain it. You should have approximately 1¾ cups of grated zucchini. If measuring by weight, which is more accurate, you will want exactly 7 ounces (200 g).
Add the egg yolks to a separate large bowl. Add the stevia and vanilla to the yolks and whisk to thoroughly combine.
Sift the cocoa into the yolk mixture and whisk to thoroughly combine. Add half the grated zucchini and 1 to 2 teaspoons of its juice from the bottom of the bowl and whisk to combine.
Sprinkle the cornstarch over the top and whisk to combine. Scrape the melted chocolate (still slightly warm) into the bowl, leaving about 3 tablespoons in the bowl for finishing. Set the bowl with the remaining chocolate aside (you will use this remaining chocolate to spread on top of the warm cake once baked).
Add the remaining zucchini and its juices to the bowl containing the chocolate mixture and whisk to thoroughly combine.
In a separate clean mixing bowl, add the egg whites and cream of tartar, if using. Using an electric mixer or a whisk, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. While the egg whites are beating, stir the chocolate mixture to help keep it soft to better incorporate the beaten egg whites. Add about one-fourth of the beaten egg whites into the chocolate mixture and gently incorporate it using a spatula to lighten the mixture. Scrape the remaining egg whites into the mixture and fold them in gently just until combined, maintaining as much volume and lightness to the batter as possible.
Gently scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it out evenly. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or just until the cake has risen slightly above the rim of the pan, and the center of the cake looks puffed and springs back slightly when pressed gently with your finger tip. A toothpick inserted into the center and near the edges should come out with just a few moist crumbs.
Set the cake on a cooling rack for 10 minutes to cool, then unmold it upside down onto a plate and carefully peel off the parchment paper from the bottom of the cake (the paper may remain attached to the bottom of the pan). Carefully invert the cake onto a serving plate so that the top side is up (some of the crust may remain on the plate, but this will be covered by the chocolate topping). Gently warm the 3 tablespoons of remaining chocolate until spreadable and pour it on top of the cake in the center. Spread the chocolate over the top and out to the edges. Let cool completely before serving, preferably overnight. The cake will settle to about 1 inch tall once cooled. The cake can be left out at room temperature, with a cake dome set over it or in a container, for the softest texture. Once the chocolate topping is fully set, lightly dust the top with cocoa powder, if desired.
Zach’s Notes:
Hervé uses all stevia (3 Tbsp/34 g) to replace the added sugar, but I divided this into equal quantities of granulated sugar and stevia (17 g each) for a flavor I like better, but you can use all stevia if you prefer or need to. I did test the recipe using all stevia, and other than the stronger flavor of stevia in the background, the texture of the cake remains the same.
I find that the cake’s flavor is best when it has cooled completely and sat for several hours. Because of this, I like to make the cake a day before it will be enjoyed.
Although the stevia is a no-calorie sweetener, the chocolate itself will contain sugar. If controlling sugar is important to you, remember that as the percentage cacao of a chocolate increases, the quantity of sugar and other ingredients decreases (and vice versa). A chocolate’s texture will also change as the ratio of the chocolate’s ingredients change (which changes the fat and sugar content), so it may take some trial-and-error to find the chocolate with a sweetness that suits your personal tastes plus results in the texture you prefer. I tested this recipe with Valrhona 70% Guanaja, Valrhona 61% Extra Bitter, and Valrhona 55% Equatoriale, but choose the chocolate you prefer. I preferred a chocolate with a cacao percentage in the mid-50s to low 60s for this cake.
With the zucchini and eggs at room temperature rather than cold from the refrigerator, you’ll reduce the possibility of the chocolate lumping when it’s added to the mixture.
If the batter has cooled while you are beating the egg whites and appears too thick to incorporate the beaten egg whites into it, very briefly warm it in a water bath (do not let it get hot), stirring it with a whisk for just a few seconds to loosen it up.
The cream of tartar is optional, but it’s a guarantee of not overbeating the egg whites, which can easily break down when beaten to stiff peaks if beaten too long. I always suggest adding cream of tartar. The rule of thumb for the amount of cream of tartar is 1/8 teaspoon for every large (30 g) egg white (the average weight of egg white from a large chicken egg).
When melting chocolate that contains cocoa butter, the chocolate is no longer in temper, making it set to a softer texture. Here, the chocolate is not tempered again once it’s melted, so the remaining chocolate applied to the top of the warm cake stays softer than normal when fully set, allowing for easier slicing. Once the chocolate has fully set, you should not experience too much “blooming” (the gray patchiness that develops when a chocolate is melted and sets out of temper), but any fat bloom that may develop after a few hours can easily be masked with a light dusting of cocoa powder.
If refrigerated, the cake still has a soft texture even when eaten cold. Keep it well sealed to prevent it from drying out. I like to keep this cake at room temperature under a cake dome for the softest texture. Chocolate’s flavor is always more pronounced at room temperature.